The Rope – the horse packers second best friend.

As trail riders and horse packers, we develop a relationship with ropes. We rely on them for everything from tying down gear to securing a horse at camp, and we encounter their strengths and quirks on every outing. Have you ever had a hard time parting from a rope that you had for years? I catch myself keeping a piece of a rope, just because I have a hard time throwing it out. I love the feel of a rope and tying a knot into it. Along with a love for ropes, comes the love for knots.
Here, we’ll look at the general history of ropes, how they’ve been used in the equine world, a breakdown of rope materials, and the role ropes play in both accident prevention and hazard. Finally, we’ll take a broad look at the most important knots for the trail rider and horse packer.

1. A General History of Ropes
Ropes are some of the oldest tools known to humanity, with evidence of their use going back tens of thousands of years. The earliest ropes were likely twisted plant fibers, used by ancient humans to bind tools, carry objects, or secure shelters. Over millennia, civilizations developed advanced rope-making techniques, from the Egyptians who spun papyrus fibers to form strong ropes for construction, to the Chinese, who twisted hemp into cords used in fishing, farming, and warfare.
By the time of the great sea explorers, ropes had become essential tools, especially in navigation and commerce. Ropes helped to raise sails, secure cargo, and tie ships to shore. This maritime history of ropes is especially rich, influencing knot-tying techniques and materials that are still in use today. For riders and packers, these same basic principles of rope-making and knot-tying made their way into early horse handling.
In our area, Native Americans were highly skilled in rope making.
Some of the primary plants used for rope-making include:

• Yucca: Yucca fibers are strong and flexible, making them ideal for cordage. Native Americans often soaked or pounded yucca leaves to separate the fibers, which were then twisted into ropes.
• Agave (Century Plant): Similar to yucca, agave leaves contain tough fibers that can be processed into strong cords. Agave was widely used in the Southwest by tribes such as the Navajo, who used it for everything from clothing to snares.
• Milkweed: The fibers from milkweed stalks are soft but strong. Indigenous people across North America, especially in the Plains and Great Lakes regions, used milkweed fibers for making cords, which could be twisted into ropes or woven into nets.
• Dogbane (Indian Hemp): Dogbane is another common source of fiber for rope-making, especially among tribes in the Northeast and Great Lakes regions. Dogbane fibers are strong and durable, ideal for fishing lines, nets, and bowstrings.
• Basswood (Linden): Basswood bark, when soaked and stripped, yields fine fibers that can be twisted into cordage. Tribes in the Eastern Woodlands used basswood extensively for making ropes and woven items.
• Cedar Bark: In the Pacific Northwest, tribes like the Tlingit and Haida used the inner bark of cedar trees for weaving and rope-making. The bark was stripped, softened, and twisted into strong, durable ropes used for fishing nets and baskets.
• Willow Bark: Tribes across North America also used willow bark for cordage. Willow bark fibers were softer than other materials but still strong enough for light cordage and lashings.

Early seafarers, particularly those in ancient civilizations like the Egyptians, Greeks, Romans, and Vikings, used natural plant fibers that were durable, flexible, and resistant to seawater. Here are the primary materials they used:

 

• Hemp: Hemp was a favorite among early mariners because of its strength and durability, even in wet conditions. It resists rot better than many other fibers, making it ideal for ropes, rigging, and sails. The ancient Greeks and Romans, as well as later European seafarers, heavily relied on hemp for their ships.
• Flax: Flax fibers were commonly used for ropes and sailcloth, especially in Europe. Flax is strong and can be spun into fine threads, making it versatile for both sails and cordage. Linen ropes (from flax) were used in ancient Egypt and were popular in medieval Europe.
• Coir (Coconut Fiber): In tropical regions, especially in the Indian Ocean and Southeast Asia, seafarers used coir ropes made from coconut husk fibers. Coir is naturally resistant to saltwater, which made it perfect for maritime use. Polynesians, South Indians, and other tropical cultures used coir extensively for their boats.
• Manila (Abacá): Native to the Philippines, the abacá plant (a relative of the banana) produces strong, water-resistant fibers known as Manila hemp. Though introduced in European shipping later (16th century onward), it became widely used due to its durability and resistance to saltwater.
• Jute: Although not as durable as hemp or flax, jute was sometimes used in maritime applications. It was more common in non-essential areas where strength wasn’t as critical, like in lighter cordage or mats on ships. Jute is the same material used for burlap sacs.
• Leather Thongs and Rawhide: In some cases, especially for Vikings and other early Northern European seafarers, leather thongs or rawhide strips were used for lashing and basic rope needs. Leather could withstand some water exposure, though it wasn’t as durable in maritime conditions.
• Willow and Other Flexible Woods: For smaller vessels, early boatbuilders would sometimes use natural flexible woods or vines for binding and reinforcing structures rather than true rope.

2. History of Ropes in the Equine World
When humans first domesticated horses, ropes quickly became essential tools in training and handling. The earliest halters and bridles were likely simple loops of rope or leather, used to guide or tether the animals. Ancient cultures adapted rope techniques for equine purposes, like using fiber ropes for bridles or nosebands. Throughout history, we’ve also seen rope used for makeshift halters, lead ropes, and lariats, crafted from materials mentioned above.
Rope became particularly valuable for horse packing. For centuries goods were transported by pack horse and pack trains. In the West, the packhorse moved all the goods to and from the fur trade areas, the gold mines and only slowly got replaced by oxen wagons, steamboats and the railway, but never disappeared until the automobile took over. Nowadays, packhorses are still in use for supplying and accessing remote areas, like hunting lodges, for trail building and for the recreational packer and trail rider. In more modern times, natural horsemanship brought rope back into popularity with the rope halter, known for its feel and feedback in training. (See my blog about halters.)

3. Rope Materials and Their Advantages/Disadvantages
Modern ropes come in a variety of materials, each with its unique properties, which makes choosing the right rope for the job essential. Here’s a breakdown of some common materials:

 

• •Nylon: Durable and strong, nylon has a bit of elasticity, which can help absorb shock. It’s resistant to abrasion and weather, making it ideal for lead ropes.

There are 3 types of Nylon rope:
3-strand: 3 strand twisted rope. Has the qualities of the nylon material, but is not comfortable to hold, and can be stiff for knot tying.
Double braid: This rope is smooth and comfortable to hold, and is good for knot tying. Comes in 3/8 and ½ inch diameter, which is needed for lead and lash ropes.
Paracord: probably one of the best ropes with 7 strands and a smooth coating over the nylon. Paracord only comes in ¼ in diameter.

 

•  Polypropylene: This lightweight and water-resistant rope is a common choice for trail riders. It floats on water and doesn’t absorb moisture, making it easy to manage in wet conditions. However, it has less durability under UV exposure and can degrade quickly in sunlight, which can weaken its strength. The woven types have a good feel in the hand and can hold a knot well, but the twisted version is useless. (similar to nylon ropes, where only the braided ones are useful).

• Cotton: Soft and gentle, cotton rope is often used in situations where comfort is essential, such as lead ropes or handling lines. Cotton is easy on hands, won’t cause burns, and is more biodegradable. But it lacks the strength and durability of synthetic ropes and can wear down quickly under frequent use. The biggest disadvantage of cotton is that it soaks up moisture and makes it useless for the outdoor use of lead ropes.

 

• Polyester: Known for its UV and abrasion resistance, polyester combines strength with low stretch, making it suitable for the horse packer. It’s durable but heavier and often pricier than other materials. Polyester is used in what we know as “military rope”, originally designed for tents and uniforms. It is a great material, but often only comes in smaller diameters, which is not practical for a lead or lash ropes.

For the trail rider and horse packer, the lead and the lash are the most important ropes. Personally, I find double braid nylon in 3/8 or ½ inch the best and most cost-effective material. Have a look at our lead rope, lash rope and rope reins. Double braid nylon also works well for rope halters. Paracord is great to have with you for highlines, emergency situations, for shelter building or decorative projects. I like the ¼ cotton rope for the basket or barrel hitch, it is light and ties knots well. In general, I prefer braided ropes over twisted ones. I don’t like polyester and polypropylene, the materials are not comfortable and often not practical for knot tying.

4. Ropes in Use: Safety and Hazard Prevention
Ropes can be life-saving tools on the trail, helping to secure gear, hobble horses, or establish a highline for tying horses at night. However, they also come with risks. A poorly tied knot or a frayed section can spell trouble. For instance, a slipping rope halter can injure a horse’s nose if left unchecked, or a lead rope left on a horse overnight can become tangled, causing panic or injury. Additionally, ropes left lying around camp can pose tripping hazards for both horses and people.

Here a few key points to keep in mind:

• When ever you handle a rope, automatically check it for integrity. Replace a damaged rope immediately. For the price of a rope, it’s not worth the risks to keep it. I often cut out the damaged part and make 2 shorter pieces.
• Immediately remove foreign debris or other ropes or strings tied to it. Debris could be burdocks or pieces of twigs. Break-away strings need to be removed from a lead rope when not in use. (I had my finger caught in break-away string left on a lead rope, which caused a severe injury).
• Learn how to properly coil a rope and always coil it and hang it up after use. Don’t let ropes lay on the ground. If there is no place to hang it, like in a camp with no trees around, place the coiled rope under a saddle.
• When handling long ropes, like a lash rope, try to keep it above ground, and avoid having it lay on the ground where you or the horse could get tangled in it.
• Learn the most important knots (see below)
• Keep ropes out of the weather, when not in use.
• Get rid of ropes that you don’t like or that don’t seem to do the job for you. Again, for the price of a rope, it needs to feel right and easily do what you intended it for.
• Cut or buy ropes long enough. You can always coil up or daisy chain extra rope, but when you are short, it’s a nuisance. My rule for lead ropes, especially for pack animals is 11 feet, lash ropes 50 feet.
• On a pack animal make sure branches can’t catch any ropes, that includes lose cinches, cinch hooks and the lash.
• Pick ropes that hold a knot. Often cheap ropes don’t allow a tight knot.
• Properly fuse the end of a rope, never let it get frayed. For fusing a propane burner works best. Rubber heat shrink is a durable way to secure a rope end.

5. Knots: The Heroes of Rope Work
It’s worth highlighting how essential they are in handling ropes effectively. Knots transform a rope into a multifunctional tool, allowing it to hold a load, create loops, or secure ends. In the equine world, a well-tied knot can make the difference between a quick release or a tangled mess.
A “knot” is usually referred to as a single unit, where as a “hitch” is a series of knots, twists or loops, but often both terms are used to describe the tying of any kind of knot.
Knots need to be practised lots. The term “use it or lose it” can’t be more accurate when it comes to knot tying. I love knots, and I practice new ones all the time, but I forget them and about them soon, if I don’t incorporate them into regular use.

My most important knots:

• The Quick Release: This knot is used to tie a horse to a rail. It’s fast to tie and under normal circumstances does the trick of “releasing quickly”. However, if a horse pulls on it, it soon loses its “quick release” ability, especially with certain rope types and wet conditions. There are different ways to tie this, and not all versions work equally well.
• The Bank Robber’s Knot: When tying a horse, this is much more of a “quick release” knot, than any other. It requires a bit more of the lead rope than the above-mentioned knot, but it truly releases quickly and falls immediately off the rail or post. It’s the perfect way to tie a pack horse because you can easily release it from the riding horse.
• The Bow Line: I think this is one of the most important knots and needs to be mastered by every horse packer. There are 2 major advantages to it: One, it can’t slip, and second it can always be undone. It can also be used to tie a horse, instead of the two above mentioned knots, or there are combinations of the two where the bow line can be made into a type of quick release. The bow line can be done wrongly and still kind of function, but it is important to know the correct way of tying it. The bow line is widely used in marine, mountaineer and first responder applications.
• The Half Hitch: The half hitch is a simple loop that one wraps around the loop of a knot to secure it. Very handy, and fast to undo, it gives extra security against a knot coming undone.
• Clove Hitch: This is basically a “double half hitch” which is handy to use when tying a lead rope to the saddle horn.
• Single and Double Diamonds, Basket and Barrel Hitches: These are staples for every horse packer and are good to master, even if they are not used on regular bases.

The correct look of the bow line:

Conclusion
Ropes are more than just tools for trail riders and horse packers; they’re lifelines, companions, and occasionally, challenges. With a history that spans thousands of years, a wide range of materials, and countless applications, ropes bring practicality and safety to our trail experiences. It is important to understand the materials, uses, and limitations of ropes so we can work with confidence. As with anything in the equine world, practice and knowledge bring the best results. So, keep those ropes in good condition, learn the basics of handling, and ride with peace of mind.
In our pack horse clinics, rope handling and knot tying have a high priority and is practised intensely during the course.

Thank you for reading!
Donat