Pack saddle stability is of the utmost importance, especially for mountain packers. Pack saddles—and sometimes riding saddles as well—require specialized tack that prevents the saddle from moving forward or backward on steep terrain. Both the crupper and the breeching prevent the saddle from creeping forward; however, they are designed very differently and act very differently on the horse’s biomechanics.

It is essential to understand these differences. I’ve seen pack loads come right over a horse’s neck. A well-trained horse will stand quietly until the situation is fixed; others might lose it and endanger themselves and the entire pack string.

In this article, we cover the pros, cons, and situations where each system is best used for pack horse safety and mountain packing.

The Breeching

You may see other spellings—britching, breechin, britchin—but the correct modern spelling is breeching. It comes from the Old English word breeches, referring to the rear parts of the body (yes, primarily the butt). In tack terminology, “breeching” literally means “the strap across the breech.”

You’ll still find the variant spellings in old frontier writing or regional dialects.

The breeching consists of a series of leather straps that connect to the back of the pack saddle and wrap around the horse’s hindquarters to prevent saddle creep when descending steep terrain.

Parts of the breeching:

 

1.    Back strap        

2.     Spider

3.     Drop straps / hip straps

4.     Breeching

5.     Flank straps

6.     Quarter straps

The back straps run from the saddle to the spider. From there, the drop straps connect to the breeching, which extends into the flank straps that attach to the cinch ring, and into the quarter strap that connects to the cinch itself.

That may sound like a lot of hoopla, but remember: a pack animal is carrying at least 150 lbs of dead weight. Going downhill, that load wants to move forward. The wide breeching strap—securely connected all around—braces the load against the horse’s strong hindquarters.

A properly adjusted breeching keeps the saddle centered and stable for long, steep descents without causing discomfort. It’s fascinating to watch an experienced pack horse travel downhill: the load shifts heavily from side to side, the hips swing, and the horse steps well underneath itself. Yet at the end of the day the saddle hasn’t budged. That is the power of a properly fitted breeching.

Adjusting the Breeching

The breeching should never be snug or tight. You should be able to easily fit a closed fist between the strap and the horse’s hindquarters. The strap should lie flat, about halfway down the gaskin.

Areas to watch for rubs:

• Too high = rubs the point of the hip
• Too low = interferes with movement
• Twisted or uneven = guaranteed sores

The spider must lie flat on the back, halfway between the back of the saddle and the tail.

Breeching is also used in draft harnesses for the same reason: preventing downhill forward creep. With horses that lack withers—especially mules—it’s sometimes used with riding saddles as well.

Materials:

Traditionally, breeching is made from leather, and sometimes the strap is padded. Today we also see biothane breeching, which is maintenance-free and less expensive. Some argue it causes more sweating and isn’t as comfortable under heavy load.

Webbing breeching is another option, but the weave must be flat and smooth to prevent rubs.

The Crupper

The crupper attaches to the back of the saddle via two straps and loops around the horse’s tailhead.

Good-quality cruppers are traditionally filled with flaxseed, which naturally oils and softens the tube.

A properly fitted crupper:

• Should sit above the anus
• Should not hang low
• Should not be tight
• Should not get pooped on

Because horses naturally dislike pressure under the tail, crupper use requires careful desensitizing. This is especially important when using a crupper on riding saddles to prevent forward slide.

 

 

 

Let’s Compare the Two

The breeching is far sturdier. Heavy leather, wide straps, and multiple attachment points allow it to embrace the entire hindquarter. When properly adjusted, it does not interfere with biomechanics.

It does add weight—typically about 4 lbs. The extra straps may catch twigs, though this is rarely a practical issue.

The crupper is much lighter and far less sturdy. It’s designed for riding saddles or light pack loads where the rider can dismount on steep hills.

However, the crupper places all pressure directly on the tailbone, transmitting force through the dock into the pelvis and spine. Under heavy load or rugged terrain, this can cause significant damage.

Potential crupper-related injuries:

• Bruising under the tail
• Tail clamping / tucking
• Temporary or permanent tail numbness
• Pelvic tension and back spasms
• Shortened stride from discomfort
• Tail fractures (extreme but documented)

A heavy load should never be secured with a crupper.

Feature	Breeching	Crupper
Primary purpose	Brakes downhill load	Prevents forward creep
Load capacity	Heavy	Light
Pressure area	Hindquarters	Under tail
Comfort	High	Moderate to low under load
Best for	Mountain packing	Light pack/riding tack
Risk	Hip rubs (if poorly fitted)	Tail soreness/bruising

 

The Northern Method

The northern method—used by some outfitters in the far North—uses neither breeching nor crupper. Instead, the back cinch is positioned as far back as possible without reaching the bucking point. The cinch then acts as a brake to prevent the saddle from creeping forward.

This works only on horses with a prominent belly. Flat-bellied or skinny horses, and most mules, are not suited to it.

I’ve tried it with our Fjord crosses and found it effective, but I checked the cinch constantly throughout the day. Tightening a cinch under a packed load is difficult. Some saddles have a cinch ring mounted on a billet, allowing tightening without reaching under the panniers.

If someone insists on using a crupper instead of breeching, I recommend combining it with the northern method to reduce strain on the tail.

The northern method places the rear cinch as far back as possible.

Conclusion:

In pack work, breeching is the correct and superior tool for controlling saddles on grades.
Cruppers work well on flat terrain, light loads, and for training purposes, but the damage they can cause under heavy load must be considered.
The northern method is lesser-known but worth exploring for certain body types and certain riders.

My personal opinion: 

I use cruppers primarily as training tools. They’re excellent for desensitizing a young horse around the tail. Attach a crupper to a riding saddle and work with the horse; later, it won’t react when a lead rope slides under the tail. Every pack and riding horse will eventually get a rope under the tail, and a horse accustomed to a crupper will handle it calmly.

For actual loads, the breeching is the proper tack to use.
Cruppers can be used on riding saddles for horses with minimal withers, but the rider should dismount on steep descents.

It was a good exercise to do a trip using the northern method, but I found it too worrisome having to check the back cinch before every descend.  

Proper tack not only makes a pack trip more enjoyable—it improves the comfort, safety, and longevity of our horses and mules.

Blue Creek Outfitting sells a heavy-duty leather breeching. see it here.
For more varieties and Biothane breeching, visit www.custompackrigging.com

Happy packing and riding!
Donat